A Travellerspoint blog

Eco Turismo in double dose

For a change, getting out of the beach

View our round the world itinerary on shiriandre's travel map.


Lençóis-BA and Chapada da Diamantina

After our long time on the beach, we decided to have a different time and head up to the Chapada da Diamantina in Bahia state. We´ve reached Lençóis on a dark night, due to another cut in the power supply that we already got used to in Brasil. It was a pity, since we couldn´t figure out that the place is a cute and charming town in the middle of a huge national park.


There we figured out that my father (Andre) was right when he says that in Brazil everything that is related to Eco-Turismo (ecological tourism) is extremely overpriced. From simple guesthouses to guide (mandatory in Brazil) everything is much more expensive than other places...

In the first day we did a small walk to some waterfalls and a colored sand rocks labyrinth close to the city, and incredibly: alone, with no guide :) (of course we got lost, because the trails are not marked...)

Next 3 day we went to the Mixila waterfall trek, a great trek, inside the park where you visit 5 different waterfalls in 3 days.

At the Mixila waterfall, only discovered 4 years ago

The water on the rivers are so dark, that it sometimes looks like you´re seeing a waterfall of coffee. This happens due to the tannin produced by the trees and flowers there that are brought by the river water.

The coffee colour like of the water. The water is drinkable, despite the colour.

The biodiversity in the Chapada da Diamantina is the second biggest in Brazil, guess where is the first one...

The trek was quite difficult, with amazingly steep walks up and down the cliffs, lots of jumping from one slippery stone to the other and lots of high vegetation to walk through.


After coming back from the trek we did a day trip to the other side of the park, to see the table mountain range that gave the name to the area (Chapada da Diamantina)
After a while it´s nice to see blue water again :)



Stalactites in a cave


When we arrived in Rio, we simply changed clothes and moved to the Pousada Lajter, Eco-Turismo branch in Teresópolis. Teresópolis is surrounded by mountains with lots of waterfalls and trek possibilities. Despite this, we did a big Xmas-eating long-family-weekend :)

Posted by shiriandre 12:37 Archived in Brazil Comments (1)

Beeeeeeeeeem differente: swimming with dolfins

From Pipa to Salvador

View our round the world itinerary on shiriandre's travel map.



Going further down along the brazilian coast, our next beach destination was Praia da pipa. at first look, another beautifull nordeste wild beach with too many tourists and tourist restaurants.



But on the second morning there we discovered the twist: when the tide is low you can walk to a small bay, otherwise blocked for passage, and if you wait a little, soon you will be swimming with dolphins. Like the brazilians would say: beeeeeeem differente! (veeeeeery different. Sounds better in portugese...).

Swiming with Dolphins... We are not the one in the pic, but we were as close as...

Differently than on the last picture, this crab is still alive

Olinda and Porto de galinhas

The small colorfull streets of olinda were our next destination. For Andre it seemed like another colonial town, one of many in Brazil, the only different thing was the noisy group practicing maracatu (regional music from Pernambuco) for the carnival (taking in consideration their ability they may be ready for carnival 2011).


For me, Shiri, it was wierd to see olinda again, after spending carnaval 2008 there, only now without the carnaval balagan (Hebrew for mess. but mess doesn't really discribes it...). The streets looking so empty and quiet, something was deffinately missing!

So, after a day and a half "far" from the beach, we headed towards Porto de Galinhas. Did we mention "sun-sand-caipirinhas" yet? Here we go again...Just a small break on the beers to go to a natural pools, made by the reefs, and here we go again....



We arrived at Salvador's barra beach on a lazy Sunday morning. Trying to get into the baiano rithm of life, we basically did nothing on our first day there, but recovering from the long night ride and getting to know the area around us. On the second day we went through the Pelourinho, the heart of the historical center, and by the third day we found ourselves on the beach again (when in Rome ...).

Panoramic view from the Cidade Alta


Salvador's beach. Baara and its farol

Salvador is known to be the capital of the African culture in Brazil, but if you are wondering where are the pictures of capoeira, just know that we are also wondering where the hell they were practicing it, because we haven't seen any...

Painting representing one of the africans gods of the candomble, bahia afro-religion

3 things we recommend to people coming for a visit Salvador :
(I) To get more athmosphere sleep in the Pelourinho (we didn't and it was a mistake),
(II) Find out in advance when the famos Olodum group is playing (and even if everyone tells you it's on Tuesday , be prepared that it's on Sunday).
(III) Don't eat baiana food on a completely empty stomach. it will have consequences! (need details?)

Axe night in Pelourinho

Posted by shiriandre 12:55 Archived in Brazil Comments (3)

Sun, sand and caipirinha

or another sunset post

View our round the world itinerary on shiriandre's travel map.



Our next stop along the nordeste (Brazil-Northeast) coast was the long waited and much
talked about Jeri. This small fishermen village went from being not
known at all to one of the main beach destinations in Brazil in only
10 years.

View from our usual spot on the beach

As it is still quite difficult to get there, the access is done only
by 4x4, the village keeps it's charm.
To get there we took a 4x4 in Camocim, and drove for 1.5 hour on
dunes, along the beach and crossing rivers with small wooden ferries.
Just when we got in Jeri we figured out that this way we've done is
sold as an expensive tour for tourists who arrive to Jeri from another
direction :)

Sunset, one of the million pictures taken that day....

In Jeri we hung out with the biggest group (yet) in all our trip: the
Parnaiba guys continued with us, a family we've met in Atins re-joined
us and two new friends joined us. After traveling alone for such a
long time, being in a 9 person group was strange and nice.

From Left: Soren, Robson, Roberta, Guilia, Alfonso (David Broza´s long lost twin brother), Rodrigo, Clementine, Shiri and Andre

Jeri is a perfect place for relaxing, doing kite or wind surfing
(which we haven't done) and sand surfing down the dunes (which I,
Andre, did), and of course having lots of caipirinhas at night.



Of course, it is a wonderful place for sunset pictures :)



Canoa Quebeada

It was difficult to leave our personal coconut tree in Jeri but finally we went to Canoa Quebrada.
The red sand dunes were a nice change from the white dunes everywhere
else, surrounded by wind-electrical turbines (brother Chooki- this
should be your next destination for turbines maintenance!).

Turbines in Canoa Quebrada

The symbol of the city, same as the islamic symbol, seems so out of
context on the beach, close to girls in small biquinis.


As Canoa was quite empty and is more touristy than Jeri we decided to
move fast. the funniest attraction there was meeting again a crazy
couple from Bahia that is traveling in Brazil in a motor home. In
Baiano speed, they are planning to reach Rio only next October :)

The Motorhome from Bahia

Fisherman cleaning the fish on the boat, you can´t get fresher fish than that

Posted by shiriandre 14:37 Archived in Brazil Comments (1)

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